Thursday March 14, 2019
N°19: Luxury and Religion
Luxury evokes consumption in its most emblematic form: superfluous and standardized. Today, the paradox of luxury goods is that, even as they are an illustration of globalization, it is unwelcome to subject them to universal marketing standards. Thus brands use wealth, ostentation or pleasure, which often a cultural and religious origin. Pascal Morand explores with us how the great religions try to condition our relationship to luxury and wealth.
Pascal Morand is Executive Chairman of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion. He has published several books including Religions and luxury. The ethics of Orient's wealth in the West. He is also professor emeritus at ESCP Europe, member of the Academy of Technology.
Thursday November 22, 2018
No 18: Dos à la Mode
Man has contradictory relations with his back. The back is hidden from his sight and touch. Vulnerable because delivered to others, it reminds him of its own limits. However, fashion continues to adorn, load or denude. Asexual zone, the most flat of our body, messages and motives unfold in all legibility without one never crosses the glances which are granted to them. In a western society obsessed by the face, it questions the links of the body to the clothing and the perception we have of our backs and that of others, from a social and psychological point of view.
By Alexandre Samson, curator of the exhibition Back side, fashion from behind. He is a fashion historian and responsible for contemporary creation at the Palais Galliera, the Fashion Museum of the City of Paris.
Rick Owens, « Cyclops »collection, prêt-à-porter, spring-summer 2016 ©PalaisGalliera
Thursday March 22, 2018
No 17: Too much! Too big! Five centuries of prejudice
What can be the common link between the 16th century high-boots, panties at the Rhingrave of the 17th, the puffing trousers of the zazous of the 40s and the "baggies" of the 90s? They have certainly dressed the legs of men throughout of the last five centuries, but especially all have been criticized during their appearance and with regard to the same reasons: the extent of the garment, the deformation of the body or the hindrance of walking.
Denis Bruna, curator at the fashion department of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris, returns to these clothing transgressions that he addressed in his last exhibition Correct outfit required. When the garment is scandalous.
In the frame of "2018, Year of Contestation".
Thursday January 25, 2018
No 16: Reflection by Jean-Paul Lespagnard
A conversation between Jean-Paul Lespagnard and Anne-Françoise Moyson, journaliste Le Vif Weekend
Thursday May 11, 2017
No 15: Habit-Bâti
Over the past few decades, the gap between architecture and textile design has continuously decreased thanks to the arrival of new technologies and innovative materials. There are countless collaborations between architects and fashion designers, whether for the design of lofts or concept stores. Architecture has become a platform for fashion.
But, what about the contribution of fashion to architecture? Although it is obvious that clothing is a second skin, can architecture be considered as our macro skin? From a unique body to a collective body, from clothes to buildings?
By Fabrice Bladt, architect graduate from La Cambre. He is the author of a thesis entitled Habit Bâti: Enquête sur la convergence des recherches entre design de vêtement et design d'architecture.
No 14: Memoirs of a robe of emotion
Language and symbolism of an exceptional scenography.
A fascinating encounter between aesthetic and moral symbols, a timeless dialogue between traditional outfits and personal outfits: the wedding dress, a true lesson in fashion.
In order to explore the most unexpected effects, Olivia Luce Meyer offers the chance to navigate through the tangible and intangible cultural heritage rooted in codified rituals. Diverse and varied, the staging of this exceptional day is a highly stimulating exercise for the social and sentimental representation of a family, a generation, a period. Fantasy and vision of a status built by the collective imagination, weddings transport us to the boundaries of traditions and contemporary desires. A ceremonial costume of great subtlety.
Olivia Luce Meyer is the curator of the exhibition and a professor of history and sociology of costumes and fashion. She also gives lessons on costume design.
In the frame of the exhibition Just Married, a history of marriage
Thursday September 15
No 13: Fashion, art and politics: a dangerous liaison or a marriage of madness?
With hindsight, Rose Bertin, the "Minister of Fashion" for Marie-Antoinette, is considered to be the unwitting factor behind the unpopularity of the last queen of France. Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, each in their own way, liberated modern women from the social corset that bound them: they became free to exist, act, move and express themselves through their clothes. Closer to the present day, Japanese fashion designers, students from Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts or from Saint Martin’s School, are behind the inspiration which aims to make fashion the manifesto for all liberties. Are Art and Politics the pillars of fashion?
Yann Kerlau was the Deputy Chief Executive Officer of the Gucci group from 2000 to 2008. Nowadays, he devotes himself to writing historical or fashion books such as Les dynasties du luxe or Les secrets de la mode. He will be signing copies of the latter after the Leçon de Mode.
Thursday March 10, 2016
No 12: Olivier Theyskens. Images and memories from a career.
Thursday January 14, 2016
No 11 ALL THINGS ENGLISH. ANGLOMANIA IN MEN’S FASHION.
Thursday 22 October 2015
No 10: In the presence of the past: corset and crinoline in contemporary fashion
Thursday 10 September 2015
No 9: The Belgians: an expected fashion story
©Cathy Pill 2005 - Alexandre Van Battel 2005
No 8: Jean Patou – From urchin to glamour
Thursday 23 October 2014
No 7: Annemie and her Muses
Thursday 5 June 2014
No 6: The 30 years of Edouard Vermeulen at Natan
Thursday, 24 April 2014
No 5: Couture Norine, Brussels The avant-garde of Belgian fashion, 1915-1952
Thursday 24 Novemer 2013
No 4: Cinéma & fashion
By Jean-Michel Bertrand, Professor in luxury and brand communication at the French Institute of Fashion and aesthetics and film analysis at the National School of Decorative Arts in Paris.
Thursday 6 June 2013
No 3: The Seventies or ready-to-wear conquers all
As part of the exhibition The Seventies, whatever you like and MADIFESTO